UV Damage

UV damage is one of the  most common issues that the Skin Care Krew counsels patients about. By the time our patients come in complaining of brown spots, texture issues or rough scaly patches, the damage is done.

The World Health Organization (WHO) has plenty of things to say about sun damage, and it is past time for all of us to listen.

First, there is no such thing as a healthy tan! The skin produces tan in order to shade itself, like a built in umbrella if you will. However, over time the umbrella breaks down and the skin beneath feels the effects of the UV light.

Second- A sunburn is caused when a high dose of radiation on the form of UV light kills the top layer of skin cells. Not only does a moderate sunburn kill skin cells, but after the peeling occurs, the the new skin cells beneath are even more prone to damage.

Third- Sun exposure causes premature aging of the skin because of 3 factors. UVB stimulates the cells of the epidermis to produce more quickly, and this causes a thickening effect. UVA light bypasses the thickened skin and effects the connective tissue (collagen) and the elasticity weakens.  Overproduction of melanin from UVB exposure creates spoting. So combining all three leaves an over exposed patient with coarse, sagging spotted skin.


The best way to prevent UV damage is still to use a broad spectrum sunscreen of at least 30 spf and reapply every 2 hours. Broad brimmed hats, sun resistant clothing and avoiding the sun during peak exposure hours are the gold standard for protecting yourself. Another rule of thumb is if you shadow is shorter than you are, it is time to head inside!

-Diane

resources
www.who.int/faq/uvhealth/en/index

September Spotlight- PCA Skin Care

PCA Skin was established almost two decades ago by physicians and estheticians who believed that highly effective skin care products could also be gentle. in 1990, licensed esthetician Margret Ancirca partnered with physicians to create her products. PCA is committed to products that are free of dyes, fragrance, lanolin and mineral oil. PCA products are only available from physician's offices. In addition to home care products, PCA Skin also has an extensive line of in office chemical peel and enzyme masks to treat and gently improve almost any skin type!

The Skin Care Krew had a chance to meet with Dr Linder, Chief Scientist for PCA Skin, in Las Vegas in 2012 at the Multi Disciplinary Meeting. Upon meeting Dr Linder, the Krew was given the opportunity to talk about product ingredients, and what may be coming new in the future.

PCA Skin home products are available at www.skincarekorner.com and in office treatments can be scheduled by calling our office at (814) 949-7280 or (814) 234-1420

-Diane

BB Creams, here to stay or all hype?

All across the Internet, BB creams are being buzzed about. Every blog and review site has an article about this new product.

So what is a BB cream?

BB stands for either Blemish Balm, Blemish Base or Beauty Balm, depending on the manufacturing company. The purpose of these hybrid product is to multitask for the consumer. The main ingredients are typically a moisturizer, primer, foundation and sunblock.

BB creams have been around since the 1960's when dermatologist Dr Chrisitne Schrammek developed the first BB cream for her patients to use to hide redness and protect their skin after laser resurfacing. Since then, BB creams have been used extensively by consumers in Asia, most notably Korea where additives for skin whitening are popular.

Since hitting the market in 2010, BB creams have been met with a lukewarm response until just recently. With more public awareness and different formulations of these hybrid creams, expect to see BB creams on more bathroom counter tops in the future.

There are many different versions so make sure that if you decide to try one of these new products, read the ingredients carefully. Many brands have a skin lightener or shimmer added which may cause irritation in some skin types. Apply only as directed and sparingly.

In our practice, we have Revisions Intellishade, a product which is a moisturizing sunscreen with added peptides. For many of our patients interested in a BB cream, Intellishade may be a good fit! Check out www.skincarekorner.com for details on Intellishade.

So, will you be trying a BB cream in the future?

-Diane

How much is too much? Part One- lip augmentation

When you make the decision to have injectable fillers, presumably it is to address facial features that are inadequate or have changed over time. So how much filler is enough?  It depends.  Is the goal to reverse some of the signs of aging?  Or is the purpose to enhance a facial attribute such as lips or eyes?  Reversing the signs of aging tends toward larger volumes distributed over larger areas, while enhancement tends to focus the volume to a single feature.

We often address a single feature when we should be looking at the overall picture and asking ourselves what is the best way to improve the result.

The objective of filling a single facial attribute should be to enhance the feature not to change its anatomy.  What my filler patients fear most is over correction.   A fake look is rendered when the anatomy of the feature is not respected. 

A perfect example is the lips.

 

My goal is to define the philtrum first and then increase vermillion height.  I stop the injection before distorting the natural contour of the lips.   The patient should not look as though she just came out of the plastic surgeons office.  The lips should appear natural and youthful with a modest amount of definition and volume.  Attempts to upturn the lips greater than their anatomy allows often yields distortion and loss of delicacy of the bow or an unnatural projection of the lips (“duck lips”).

 

 

-"The Admiral" Dr Robert Louton, MD, F.A.C.S.

 

 

 

Consultations and treatment are available from Dr Louton in both our Altoona and State College locations. Call (814)949-7280 or (814) 234-1420 for more information.

 



Improving your skin through diet

I’m sure every one of us would LOVE to lose a few pounds...but did you know that by eating

healthier and dieting, you can actually improve your skin as well? And it isn’t what you
think..just as I do with my patients, I will reiterate again...chocolate and Mt. Dew do NOT cause pimples! However, Cosmopolitan.com recently featured an article called “A Diet for Gorgeous Skin" informing readers what eat and what actually to avoid:

1. New research shows that potatoes, and white breads, pastas, and rice can trigger high insulin levels, causing unwanted breakouts! Instead, eat whole-grains,
like whole grain breads and whole wheat pastas.
What are the benefits for your health? Studies have shown a significant decrease

of strokes, Type 2 Diabetes, heart disease, colorectal cancer, and gum

disease! And on a personal note, whole wheat pasta reheats MUCH better than
white pasta, staying firm, and not getting mushy!

 2. Eating more seafood! Fish contains essential fatty acids Omega-3
and Omega-6, which help to decrease inflammation in the body. The less
inflammation, the fewer pimples! Inflammation is also a cause of premature
wrinkling. Salmon, mackerel and tuna are more recommended.

Now, if you’re anything like me and you HATE seafood, there are other
alternatives! Many nuts contain these fatty acids, such as almonds, hazelnuts,
eggs and flaxseeds. Throw some on your salad, or pack a baggie to snack on at
your desk.

What are the benefits to your health? The list is too long to type out!

Studies have shown that omega fatty acids can help prevent degenerative

diseases like heart disease, hypertension, rheumatoid arthritis, Alzheimer’s,
diabetes and more. The anti-inflammatory properties of omega-3’s are especially
beneficial to menopausal women in preserving heart, breast and bone health,
and even help keep for mood swings. I’ll have to make a mental note to stock our
office kitchen with some almonds...

3. Avoid foods that make you blush. Not every women has this problem, but

many do, especially as they age and blood vessels dilate more. Foods to avoid
are spicy foods, such as mexican or hot peppers, MSG, and alcohol. If you do
tend to get red easily and often, simply pay attention to what triggers it and cut
back. Cutting back on spicy foods can also prevent heartburn and acid reflux, and
avoiding or cutting back alcohol can reduce calorie intake, which is never a bad
thing!

4. Many women feel that if they cut out fat altogether, they are being healthy.

However, avoiding all fats can hinder more than help. Many women, especially
younger, become dry and flaky because they are not eating enough fat. Eating
fat in moderation can help to lubricate your skin, as well as absorb Vitamin A.
Deficiency of Vitamin A will cause premature aging, early fine lines, and uneven
texture. Avocados, nuts, olive oil, and egg whites are all full of good fats that can
help your skin, and not make you put on the pounds.
Your body also needs fats to survive. When one restricts too much fat
from her diet, she she is at risk for depression, increased cancer risk, overeating,
and unbalanced nutrients. Moderation is the key!

And to me, most importantly, DRINK WATER! Water flushes out impurities and

keeps your body and skin hydrated. It has also been proven that you can burn
200 calories a day, simply by drinking 6 glasses of ice cold water every day!



-Elizabeth

La Roche Posay Redermic R review- Diane

Diane reviewing Redermic R by La Roche Posay

How to read a cosmetic label

We all know how important it us to read the labels on the food we eat and fluids we drink, but what about our cosmetics? 

Whether our product is a make up, cleanser or sunscreen, it is important as consumer to know exactly what we are placing on out skin. The FDA  requires certain information on each label including ingredient and warnings. Sometimes it can get a little confusing as to what exactly you are looking at!

1. Product Identity

2. Net Contents

3. Product Ingredients

4. Directions for use

5. Origin of product

6. Manufacturer information

7. *Not a FDA requirement, denotes how long the product is stable once opened

8. *Not a FDA requirement, denotes compliance with European recycling standards

9. Warnings

For the Krew, it is very important that we read and understand what ingredients are in our products prior to recommending to our patients. Ingredients are listed in order of concentration, so the first ingredient is the one with the highest percentage in the product. Also, the full ingredient name will be listed. For instance, if the   Product claims to have "Retinol" in it and the ingredient listed in "retinol palmitate" the skin's response may not be what was originally intended.

Remember to read and understand what ingredients are in your products before you ever apply anything to your skin!

-Diane

La Roche Posay Substiane+ Review by Dr Fanny

Time to clean house!

I am currently renovating some rooms in my house, and my next project is my bathroom. As

a recovering product/makeup junkie, as I was cleaning out the many skin care, hair care,

and cosmetic products I had accumulated over the past 4 years, I was starting to feel a little

overwhelmed! I mean, what was good? What should I keep? What should I pitch? Some of

the makeup I had was from my makeup artist days, and were well over 4 years old. Obviously I

threw out anything with an expiration. But what about everything else? So I decided to do some

research. I knew if I was having this problem, that many of my patients were as well.

After looking into things, I came up with a general list of shelf life for most skin care and

cosmetics:

*Mascara, Eyeshadow, and Eyeliner - 2-3 months. These products are most important to

replace regularly, as they are applied so closely to your eyes. Mascara wands can easily breed

bacteria, which can transfer to your eyes. It will have a gasoline-like smell when it goes bad.

Eyeliner and eyeshadow that are past the usage point can cause red, itchy eyes, and even

conjunctivitis.

*Liquid Foundation - 6-12 months. When left in hot or moist environments, bacteria can grow.

Also, avoid dipping your fingers directly into the bottle, as your fingers can carry bacteria and

germs as well. Instead, pour a little on the back of your hand, or use a sponge. However, use a

new sponge every time you apply.

*Powders/Powder Blush - 2 years. There is hardly any water in a powder so the risk of

contaminating with bacteria is low. However, blush brushes should be cleaned

weekly with an

antibacterial cleanser, or your regular face wash.

*Lipstick/Lipgloss - 1 year. As long as the lipstick/gloss is not left in direct heat, or left

unopened for a long period of time, you can go up to one year before replacing this product.

Skin Care

*Facial Cleansers - 6-12 months. After this time, the active ingredients in the wash can break

down and become less effective, especially if left in a hot shower.

*Moisturizers - 6 to 12 months after being opened/ 2 years if unopened. Facial moisturizers

that have added ingredients -- like antioxidants or vitamins A, C, or E -- expire more quickly

because they're sensitive to light and heat (if left in your bathroom). If you notice a change in

color, consistency, or smell, throw the products out.

*Retinols/Trets - Most of these products will have an expiration date, but in case you can’t find

one, 6 months. The Vitamin A can break down over time, making the product less effective.

*Vitamin C - 6-8 months. After you open a Vitamin C product, oxygen will get to it and the

product will oxidize, or turn dark. This is normal, and will not affect the effectiveness. However,

after 6-8 months, you may notice the the Vitamin C is very dark and may have an odd smell. At

that point, it will need replaced.

*Eye Creams - 6 months. Active ingredients can break down after too long in eye creams.

Also, try to avoid dipping fingers directly into eye cream, as you can transfer more bacteria.

*Sunscreens - All sunscreens are now required to have an expiration date on the bottle.

Sunscreen expiration dates are 3 years after the manufacturing date, but if you try to use an

SPF from last year and it’s watery or smells odd, buy a new bottle.

After going through all of my own products, I ended up throwing away a majority of the products.

My husband was thrilled...at least until my next trip to the makeup store to replace everything I

threw out!

-Elizabeth

Solar Damage and Prevention

Did you know there are antioxidants that can help prevent solar damage?

Product Line Spotlight- La Roche Posay

La Roche Posay is our featured skin care line this month over at www.skincarekorner.com! To know why we are featuring such a great product line, we wanted to give all of our subscribers a bit of background on this line and explain why La Roche Posay is known for longevity in the skincare industry.

La Roche Posay is a small village in the heart of France that has a one of a kind, selenium rich spring flowing through it. Selenium is a powerful antioxidant with heavy duty healing properties. The people of the village have known for a very long time that their spring, and the Thermal Spring Water that bubbled up from it, was something special. In fact, The Thermal Center was established as a hospital for dermatological problems and healing and gained recognition from the French Medical Academy in 1865 for efficacy of Thermal Spring Water in treating skin conditions.

Some of the products from La Roche Posay at skincarekorner.com

On a side note, there are two stories circulating about the discovery of La Roche Posay spring. The first legend says that in the Middle Ages, a knight named Bertrand Du Geusclin stopped at the spring to water his horse. The horse, who suffered from eczema, took one drink of water and then leaped into the spring. When the horse emerged, his eczema was healed. The other story is that Napolean built a hospital to treat his soldiers coming back from war who had suffered skin injuries at the La Roche Posay spring in the 19th century.

Today, the same dermatological hospital treats roughly 7,500 patients annually for everything from rosacea to psoriasis. For those of us looking for the benefits of selenium and Thermal Spring Water a bit closer to home, Thermal Spring Water is used in each and every La Roche Posay product!

All this month, the Skin Care Krew will be reviewing our favorite products and passing on our recommendations. If there is a specific product you would like to know more about, you can always leave your request in the comments or email us directly!

skincarekrew@gmail.com


-Diane

A Hard Habit to Break-Elizabeth

I recently came across an article at www.Allure.com (the makeup artist in me still loves reading

about new cosmetics!!) called “17 Bad Skin Habits.” As I was reading the article, it amazed me

how many of the bad habits I myself had! If I (a skincare specialist who worked with bad skin

everyday) was guilty of these habits, how many of our patients were? The entire list can be

found at http://www.allure.com/skin-care/2010/bad_skin_habits#slide=4. 
Below is highlighted a list of some very important, and easily breakable, habits.

* Skipping a Daily Sunscreen - The fastest way of aging your skin? Not wearing a broadspectrum

sunscreen of at least an SPF 30 or higher! A tablespoon is recommended to safely

protect your face.

* Smoking - Do I really need to explain this one? Not only is smoking horrible for your health, it

also ages you an average of 2.5 years every year. Not to mention the awful smell....

* Using Dirty Makeup Brushes - This is a HUGE culprit among many patients. Take 10

minutes once a week, and wash your brushes with your facial cleanser! You’ll be surprised at

the difference!

* Not Washing Your Face At Night - I am the guiltiest party with this bad habit! I understand

that by the end of the day, you’re beat. I’m the same way, but if I can break this habit with a

4 year old, work full time, and school full time, so can you! Take 10 minutes and wash your

face...I promise you’ll see a big improvement within a week.

* Popping Pimples - It’s so hard not to pick. As someone who used to suffer from cystic acne,

I know this all too well. But your face will thank you in the long run if you can keep your hands

off! Apply some SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age or some benzoyl peroxide to help dry it up.

Picking at a pimple can actually push the bacteria inside deeper into your face, causing more

surrounding breakout, not to mention redness and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. If

a pimple looks ready to break, apply warm compresses to see if it will drain on its own. If not

HANDS OFF until it can heal itself.

* Tanning - Again, do I really need to explain this one? There is a laundry list of horrible things

that tanning can do to your body, including thicker skin, melasma, hyperpigmentation, fine lines,

and cancer. Self tanners and spray tans can give you the golden glow you want using much

safer methods.Check out the article at http://www.skincarekorner.com/index.phpp=detail&pid=61&cat_id=.

Which habits will you be changing?

-Elizabeth

ABC's of UV Rays

What are these rays and how do they damage the skin? UVA is a short range beam of ultraviolet light and UVB is a long range beam. An easy way to remember what beam effects what layer of skin is to recall that UVA light is an aging ray and UVB is the burning ray. UVB leads to superficial damage, such as erythema (pinkness) and sunburn. UVA penetrates the skin deeply to effect the dermal layer causing the skin to age and damages cell DNA possibly causing skin cancer!

Broad spectrum sunscreen blocks both UVA and UVB rays preventing the long and short term damage of the sun’s rays.

The proof is right in front of us now as consumers that sunscreen is the most important skin care product that we have available!

Protection is essential.

-Diane

Fing

Elite Zinc Sunscreen

For me, Elite Zinc Sunscreen is my broad spectrum sunscreen of choice. I have found that the mildness of this sunscreen is ideal for both acneic and rosacea skin types. 17% micronized zinc means that the coverage is both even and well absorbed by the skin. Along with being oil free and chemical free, this sunscreen has Vitamins A, C, E, Co Q-10 and green tea extract!

Post procedure,Elite 30 SPF  is the only sunscreen I use for our patients as it is appropriate and well tolerated in all patients whether it be a laser hair removal, resurfacing patient or microdermabrasion and chemical peels. For those who find the whitening effect of the zinc oxide to be a little off putting, I recommend the patient simply mix a small amount of their make up into the sunscreen before applying.

The pump delivery system is nice, and the bottle has lasted me about 3 months with daily application. This sunscreen also travels well and doesn’t leak or spil. I have no problem reapplying this sunscreen. On a personal note, I have used this sunscreen on both my husband and 7 year old for years, and they have both tolerated it well. I have recommended this sunscreen to patients who golf because after application, it does not leave their hands slick and greasy.

What ever sunscreen you choose, remember it is important to reapply and maintain protection even when the forecast is cloudy!

-Diane

My Go to Sunscreen- Rebecca

I have found my favorite sunscreen!  Revision's Intellishade original is a tinted moisturizer with SPF45.  I have tried so many different sunscreens and most of them were too thick and white or got in my eyes and burned like crazy.  The advanced formula is great for even sensitive skin types.  I like that I get my complete tinted coverage as well as SPF45 broad-spectrum protection and moisturizing peptides.  Breakthrough peptides reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by directing the skin cells to produce more collagen.  The tinted coverage matches every skin tone, every time.  I like the original formula because it gives me a dewy finish, but it comes in a Matte formula too.  Most oily skin types like the matte finish because it helps conceal the shine.  I sample the product in both formulas to everyone, because you are only going to wear a sunscreen if you like it.  It is something that’s on your face all day (hopefully), so you must like the texture, the smell and how it feels once it is on your skin.  With the Intellishade, when I apply it in the morning it stays put.  I love it and I know you will love it too.

-Rebecca

Sunscreen 101- Elizabeth

As much as men don’t like to admit it, their skin can be just as sensitive and sun damage-prone

as women’s skin. Men often look at applying any variation of facial cream or lotion as feminine,

but there is nothing feminine about applying a daily sunblock and preventing skin cancer and

premature aging!

Sunscreen isn’t just for fair men, either. Even men who tan easily, as well as African American

and men of other ethnicities need to be wearing this life-protecting product. According to

http://

www.skincancer.org

, “The majority of people diagnosed with melanoma are white men over age

50.”

The steps in choosing the right sunscreen for men is simple, as long as you remember some

important details:

1. Always make sure the sunscreen you are purchasing contains titanium dioxide and/or zinc

oxide. These ingredients act as physical blocks, as if you are holding a solid object between

you and the sun.

2. Make sure the label says that the sunblock protects against BOTH UVA (aging UV rays) and

UVB rays (burning UV rays). Just because you don’t actually get a sunburn does not mean that

you haven’t soaked up some not-so-nice UVA rays, causing lines, hyperpigmentation, and dull

complexion.

3. Choose an SPF 30 or higher, and try to find one that is labeled “water resistant.”

Correct application of sunblock is the most important part of sunscreen 101. Sunscreen should

be applied 15 to 20 minutes before heading outside into the sun. If you are off to the beach or

a picnic for the day, then whole body application is recommended, which is about the equivalent

of a shotglass full of sunscreen. Men also need to pay special attention to spots such as

ears and receding hairlines, that are often forgotten about. If you are somewhere you will be

sweating or swimming, reapply EVERY 2 hours.

Men have many options when choosing a sunscreen, and

www.SkinCareKorner.com has many

different brands, textures, and SPF’s to choose from. Check out our store website for more

information, and watch the video on properly applying sunscreen!

References:

http://www.tree.com/health/mens-skin-care-healthy-skin-sunscreen-tips.aspxhttp://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-information/skin-cancer

-Elizabeth

The Visia in Action!

Dr Fanny recently had the opportunity to work with one of our local radio personalities "Jojo" As part of the rejuvenating process, Jojo had a complete skin care analysis done!

What kinds of things would you like to know about your own skin?

-Diane