Does your skin really need to breathe?

We hear this every day in the office. A woman will come and in while reviewing her skin history, she will talk about breaks that she takes from products, make up or both to allow her skin to breathe.

So, do we really need to give our skin a chance to breathe?

For some people, the benefits of being able to go without make up are great. They feel that their skin stays clearer the less product that they have to apply.The biggest breakout culprits are oil, fragrances, allergens and preservatives. However, if make up is properly removed each evening, there should not be an issue with clogged pores and breakout. There is no need to allow the skin to breathe.

The top layer of skin is dead and does not require respiration. When people refer to allowing the skin to breathe, they are usually talking about not occluding the skin with heavy creams or lotions. The lower layers of skin are really the layers that we need to concentrate on feeding and nourishing with effective vitamins C and vitamin A

Do you take a break from products to allow your skin to breathe?

-Diane

Peel away the summer

If you are like me, the summer took its toll on your skin. The beach left more than just sand between my toes! The sun's rays caused little brown spots, fine lines and a dull complexion. I am all washed up!

So how do I peel away the summer damage?

I start by revamping my home care.
-Hydration becomes essential, and repairing the skin's surface can't be done without epidermal water loss being slowed. I am currently using Hydrating B5 gel and Skin Firming cream from SkinCeuticals to repair. Other products I have used include Toleraine and Substiane from La Roche Posay.

-Next I have to feed my fried out collagen. Phloretin CF from SkinCeuticals is my broad spectrum antioxidant of choice currently. I love the way it feels on my skin, and with the additional ingredients of ferulic acid and phloretic, I am getting some help with my pigment issuses too!

-Increasing the skin's turn over rate is accomplished by returning to my Vitamin A regimen. I am back using Redermic R from La Roche Posay. I love the LHA that helps to gently exfoliate with each application.

-Exfoliation is key. The Black Mask from Revisions has become a weekly treatment for me. This gentle alpha hydroxy rich mask exfoliates the days working outside in the garden in no time!

In the office, I start with microdermabrasion. For my skin type, I use microdermabrasion about 4 times a year to physically exfoliate and restart my skin. Microdermabrasion is done in our office with a diamond chipped wand and vacuum system and hydrating products are added after treatment to help repair skin

Intense Pulse Light treatments (IPL) can also help break up pigment from the summer and decease the apperance of vessels and capillaries that occur from sun burns. IPL treatments work best in a series of 3, and are scheduled about 3 weeks apart.

Downtime for all of these procedures is minimal.

Home care and in office treatments, combined with a great injectable treatment of Botox with Dr Louton will have me ready to face my family and patients with a fresh face well before the holiday season!

-Diane

UV Damage

UV damage is one of the  most common issues that the Skin Care Krew counsels patients about. By the time our patients come in complaining of brown spots, texture issues or rough scaly patches, the damage is done.

The World Health Organization (WHO) has plenty of things to say about sun damage, and it is past time for all of us to listen.

First, there is no such thing as a healthy tan! The skin produces tan in order to shade itself, like a built in umbrella if you will. However, over time the umbrella breaks down and the skin beneath feels the effects of the UV light.

Second- A sunburn is caused when a high dose of radiation on the form of UV light kills the top layer of skin cells. Not only does a moderate sunburn kill skin cells, but after the peeling occurs, the the new skin cells beneath are even more prone to damage.

Third- Sun exposure causes premature aging of the skin because of 3 factors. UVB stimulates the cells of the epidermis to produce more quickly, and this causes a thickening effect. UVA light bypasses the thickened skin and effects the connective tissue (collagen) and the elasticity weakens.  Overproduction of melanin from UVB exposure creates spoting. So combining all three leaves an over exposed patient with coarse, sagging spotted skin.


The best way to prevent UV damage is still to use a broad spectrum sunscreen of at least 30 spf and reapply every 2 hours. Broad brimmed hats, sun resistant clothing and avoiding the sun during peak exposure hours are the gold standard for protecting yourself. Another rule of thumb is if you shadow is shorter than you are, it is time to head inside!

-Diane

resources
www.who.int/faq/uvhealth/en/index

BB Creams, here to stay or all hype?

All across the Internet, BB creams are being buzzed about. Every blog and review site has an article about this new product.

So what is a BB cream?

BB stands for either Blemish Balm, Blemish Base or Beauty Balm, depending on the manufacturing company. The purpose of these hybrid product is to multitask for the consumer. The main ingredients are typically a moisturizer, primer, foundation and sunblock.

BB creams have been around since the 1960's when dermatologist Dr Chrisitne Schrammek developed the first BB cream for her patients to use to hide redness and protect their skin after laser resurfacing. Since then, BB creams have been used extensively by consumers in Asia, most notably Korea where additives for skin whitening are popular.

Since hitting the market in 2010, BB creams have been met with a lukewarm response until just recently. With more public awareness and different formulations of these hybrid creams, expect to see BB creams on more bathroom counter tops in the future.

There are many different versions so make sure that if you decide to try one of these new products, read the ingredients carefully. Many brands have a skin lightener or shimmer added which may cause irritation in some skin types. Apply only as directed and sparingly.

In our practice, we have Revisions Intellishade, a product which is a moisturizing sunscreen with added peptides. For many of our patients interested in a BB cream, Intellishade may be a good fit! Check out www.skincarekorner.com for details on Intellishade.

So, will you be trying a BB cream in the future?

-Diane

La Roche Posay Redermic R review- Diane

Diane reviewing Redermic R by La Roche Posay

How to read a cosmetic label

We all know how important it us to read the labels on the food we eat and fluids we drink, but what about our cosmetics? 

Whether our product is a make up, cleanser or sunscreen, it is important as consumer to know exactly what we are placing on out skin. The FDA  requires certain information on each label including ingredient and warnings. Sometimes it can get a little confusing as to what exactly you are looking at!

1. Product Identity

2. Net Contents

3. Product Ingredients

4. Directions for use

5. Origin of product

6. Manufacturer information

7. *Not a FDA requirement, denotes how long the product is stable once opened

8. *Not a FDA requirement, denotes compliance with European recycling standards

9. Warnings

For the Krew, it is very important that we read and understand what ingredients are in our products prior to recommending to our patients. Ingredients are listed in order of concentration, so the first ingredient is the one with the highest percentage in the product. Also, the full ingredient name will be listed. For instance, if the   Product claims to have "Retinol" in it and the ingredient listed in "retinol palmitate" the skin's response may not be what was originally intended.

Remember to read and understand what ingredients are in your products before you ever apply anything to your skin!

-Diane

ABC's of UV Rays

What are these rays and how do they damage the skin? UVA is a short range beam of ultraviolet light and UVB is a long range beam. An easy way to remember what beam effects what layer of skin is to recall that UVA light is an aging ray and UVB is the burning ray. UVB leads to superficial damage, such as erythema (pinkness) and sunburn. UVA penetrates the skin deeply to effect the dermal layer causing the skin to age and damages cell DNA possibly causing skin cancer!

Broad spectrum sunscreen blocks both UVA and UVB rays preventing the long and short term damage of the sun’s rays.

The proof is right in front of us now as consumers that sunscreen is the most important skin care product that we have available!

Protection is essential.

-Diane

Fing

Elite Zinc Sunscreen

For me, Elite Zinc Sunscreen is my broad spectrum sunscreen of choice. I have found that the mildness of this sunscreen is ideal for both acneic and rosacea skin types. 17% micronized zinc means that the coverage is both even and well absorbed by the skin. Along with being oil free and chemical free, this sunscreen has Vitamins A, C, E, Co Q-10 and green tea extract!

Post procedure,Elite 30 SPF  is the only sunscreen I use for our patients as it is appropriate and well tolerated in all patients whether it be a laser hair removal, resurfacing patient or microdermabrasion and chemical peels. For those who find the whitening effect of the zinc oxide to be a little off putting, I recommend the patient simply mix a small amount of their make up into the sunscreen before applying.

The pump delivery system is nice, and the bottle has lasted me about 3 months with daily application. This sunscreen also travels well and doesn’t leak or spil. I have no problem reapplying this sunscreen. On a personal note, I have used this sunscreen on both my husband and 7 year old for years, and they have both tolerated it well. I have recommended this sunscreen to patients who golf because after application, it does not leave their hands slick and greasy.

What ever sunscreen you choose, remember it is important to reapply and maintain protection even when the forecast is cloudy!

-Diane